[HIGHLY RECOMMEND WATCHING THIS FULL SCREEN]
Lean how to create a custom camera profile for use with your Sekonic 758Cine. I take you all the way through the process from shooting the chart to processing the footage with Sekonic's new Data Transfer Software v3.0. I have also developed a library of profiles that you can freely download at: ryanewalters.com/SP/sekonicprofiles.html.
If you are shooting with a LOG or RAW camera, I also HIGHLY recommend scrolling to the bottom of the page (ryanewalters.com/SP/sekonicprofiles.html) as I detail the additional steps you need to take in order to ensure that your profile is as reliable as possible. Additionally, I have a list of tips and F.A.Q's that should answer any of your questions.
Until Next Time, Get Out There And Shoot!
Ryan E. Walters, Cinematographer
Here's what I don't get.
ReplyDeleteI uploaded 3 of your profiles: RED, DSLR, AF-100
When I press the exposure button, I get different readings each time for my f-stop. Its roughly a 1-stop difference between all of them.
So, i'm wondering if something is wrong. Shouldn't they all be reading the exact same f-stop? At least the footcandles read out the same, just the f-stop is confusing me.
And, I am wondering about film cameras. How would we create a profile for those? (Super16, 35mm, etc)
Yeah, my readings fluctuate something like yours - they aren't exactly all the same. I'll do the exact test you did to see if I get the exact numbers when Im home. :)
ReplyDeleteAlso, one more question, what if you don't have time to set up a profile for your camera. Such as you end up using a different camera each time that you have never used before and don't have a profile for it yet, but dont have the time to make one on set. Would it be best to use the standard default setting then?
Thanks!
As long as they fluctuate in small amounts like what I've posted, then you are fine. If it is by 1 stop or more, then something else is going on. I don't think you'll get the same exact numbers, as you'll be in a different lighting environment then I was in. But you should be able to reproduce the same kind of results, just at different F stop readings.
ReplyDeleteIf you don't have time to create a profile, then using the standard profile is a good starting place. I wouldn't trust it completely, just do to the fact that every camera, and every camera setting / picture profile, can drastically change how the camera responds - just one of the "fun" parts of digital ... Ideally, you would have the time before hand to test it out and set up the meter. If I didn't have the time, then I'd use a standard default profile- but the first thing I would do is to take a reading of the key light and then set my expsoure accordingly. If that exposure looked appropriate on camera, then I'd use that. Otherwise, I'd adjust the exposure until it did look appropriate and note that T-Stop. I'd then adjust the ISO on the meter until it gave me the same F-Stop reading and proceed from there. Down and dirty, but it would work. :)